New method sheds light on the chemistry behind hair color fading for the first time

Aveda, recognized globally for its leadership in sustainable innovation in hair care, together with Keracol Limited — a company founded by academic researchers specializing in color chemistry and sustainability at the University of Leeds — has announced the publication of their groundbreaking research in the peer-reviewed journal Heliyon¹.

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This significant study introduces an innovative measurement method that correlates dye molecular desorption with hair color shifts, irrespective of hair type and texture or background color. By enabling a deeper molecular-level understanding of how hair interacts with dye molecules, this new extraction technique paves the way for the development of innovative testing methods and advanced hair color technologies.

Hair dyeing is a global practice embraced in salons and at home, yet fading color remains a common challenge for consumers. Until now, most assessments of hair color and its longevity have relied on Spectrophotometric color analysis, which only measures bulk properties. These methods fail to capture the complex chemistry and interactions between dye molecules and the hair fiber itself. What actually happens beneath the surface when hair dye fades?

“We adapted advanced dye-analysis techniques that were originally created for examining historical textile artefacts in museums,” said Dr. Richard Blackburn, Professor of Sustainable Materials at the University of Leeds and a co-founder of Keracol Limited. “It's exciting that we've been able to use knowledge from heritage conservation for cutting-edge contemporary application. Building on a decade of collaboration with Aveda, we have established this unique analytical method that goes beyond visual assessments to reveal molecular-level insights.”

This method uses a specialized solvent mixture of water and pyridine to extract dye molecules from hair in a variety of colors, textures, and conditions, including blonde, grey, black curly, and bleached blonde samples. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis of these extracts tracks dye retention across different hair properties giving us added insight into factors that influence color longevity and overall hair fiber health.

“This is a new approach to understanding hair dye on different hair types and textures, which will give us insight into new breakthrough technology in formulations and technology,” says Dr. Jeanna Zguris, Executive Director of Haircare Innovation and Analytical at Aveda. “It’s incredibly exciting because it gives us deeper insight into not just dye retention but also how hair color formulation can interact with and impact the overall health of the hair fiber. This knowledge can lead to longer-lasting, more vibrant color with less damage, empowering consumers to keep their hair beautiful and strong for longer.”

With this research, Aveda continues to lead in science-driven innovation, empowering consumers to achieve beautiful, enduring color while caring for hair health.

About AVEDA

Our mission at Aveda is to care for the world we live in, from the products we make to the ways in which we give back to society. At Aveda, we strive to set an example for environmental leadership and responsibility, not just in the world of beauty, but around the world.

A force of nature since 1978, Aveda was founded by hair stylist Horst Rechelbacher with a mission to care for the world we live in. Crafted with care for people and planet, Aveda creates vegan, plant-powered, high-performance products for hair, skin and body. Aveda uses botanical technologies and green chemistry and combines the principles of modern science and the ancient art of Ayurvedic healing. Aveda is Leaping Bunny approved by Cruelty Free International and a certified B Corporation, meeting high verified standards of social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability. Aveda products are available in more than 45 markets worldwide across freestanding stores, partner salons, specialty retailers and on aveda.com. For every hair, everyone.

About Keracol

Founded in 2011 by Professor Richard Blackburn & Professor Chris Rayner from the University of Leeds, Keracol merges scientific rigor with nature’s brilliance. Keracol products are backed by cutting-edge research and advanced technology, ensuring the best for people and the planet. Keracol conducts research and development that blends green science, sustainable materials and nature to create innovative, future-ready beauty solutions for hair dyes, hair care, skin care and colour cosmetics.

Keracol prioritizes sourcing natural ingredients through a transparent and ethical network of suppliers, prioritizing upcycling and ensuring full traceability and responsible practices throughout the supply chain. Keracol's award-winning products and ingredients claims are substantiated with scientific evidence, consumer preference and its sustainability benefits are verifiable. Keracol develops novel approaches to the extraction and purification of active molecules from plant sources based on green chemistry principles, using renewable and waste materials as sources of extracts. Keracol develops cosmetic formulations based on sustainable ingredients and novel science of how these formulations provide better function in cosmetic products.

The expertise in the Keracol R&D team spans organic chemistry, colour chemistry, polymer chemistry, extraction technology, coloration technology, natural products chemistry, and formulation.

About The Estée Lauder Companies

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is one of the world’s leading manufacturers, marketers, and sellers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance, and hair care products, and is a steward of luxury and prestige brands globally. The Company’s products are sold in approximately 150 countries and territories under brand names including: Estée Lauder, ARAMIS, Clinique, Lab Series, Origins, M·A·C, La Mer, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, Aveda, Jo Malone London, Bumble and bumble, Darphin Paris, TOM FORD, Smashbox, AERIN Beauty, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, GLAMGLOW, KILIAN PARIS, Too Faced, Dr.Jart+, the DECIEM family of brands, including The Ordinary and NIOD, and BALMAIN Beauty.

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